Emerging Trends: Spring 2015 Womenswear
When trends present themselves as clearly and cohesively as they have thus far at New York Fashion Week, it can only mean that the creative collective is yearning for something. Halfway through the Spring 2015 shows and several trends have emerged, expressing in no uncertain terms our of-the-moment wants, desires and preoccupations.
The free-spirited sensibility of the 1970s infused itself into almost every show—from BCBG to Victoria Beckham—the look less literal, more a nod to nostalgic dressing seen through a fresh, modern lens. Tia Cibani and Jill Stuart both channeled Bianca Jagger: Cibani with diaphanous dresses, trousers and peasant tops, Stuart with high-waisted flares, menswear-inspired stripes and one-shoulder silhouettes. Likewise, Ulla Johnson's NYFW debut showcased cotton blouses tucked into flared indigo jeans, artfully draped dresses and fringed, patterned sweaters that signaled a return to looser style, with an emphasis on fuss-free, feel-good appeal.
Quieter colors have become a running theme of the Spring 2015 shows, with soft neutrals and desaturated pastels taking precedence over brighter pop colors. Ralph Rucci's almost entirely monochrome collection broke up the contrast between black and white with singular looks in brown, yellow or blush, a welcome break from the overwhelming bombardment of clashing colors and patterns evident in previous fashion weeks. Altuzarra's palette of ivory, pink and sky blue created a calming, childlike mood indicative of the larger movement towards colors that signal peace, purity and innocence as an antidote to the harshness of reality.
Clean, relaxed shapes have surfaced as one of Spring 2015's most immediately identifiable trends. Chadwick Bell presented a layered collection of loose-fitting foundation pieces—a floor-length gown, an oversized shirt, a classic pencil skirt—in monochrome shades and ultra-tactile fabrics, while Wes Gordon excelled in his execution of simple elongated silhouettes, curved seams and stretch crepe fabrications. Overall, this shift to simplicity indicates our need to reground, our want for wearability and our desire to see every item of clothing as part of a versatile wardrobe.
Lightweight fabrics and feminine detailing threaded through the collections, with a preponderance of airy cotton, silk, embroidery and lace. Tina Luz of TSE cited mixed-media artist Simone Shubuck as inspiration, evidenced by intricate stitching and blended fabrications that included cotton comprised of 22% Japanese paper. Likewise, Derek Lam referenced collage artists Fred Free and Sigrid Sandström for his 10 Crosby line through a midi-skirt with inset pleating, a washed silk linen trench and a sweater dress comprised of loose-, compact- and cable-knit wool. Tadashi Shoji's texture-focused collection was all embroidered tulle, ornate lace and delicate lattice prints, highlighting a preoccupation with how pieces feel, move and live.
So far, the Spring 2015 shows have revealed a surprisingly cohesive message: that a return to simplicity, tranquility and contentment is what we are craving. In a world that feels increasingly unstable and unpredictable, we find comfort in the past and look to the familiar in order to fashion the future. In this case, by ushering in a modern era of peace, love and understanding.
All images (C) Associate Press
Image 1: Tibi Spring 2015
Image 2: BCBGMAXAZRIA Spring 2015
Image 3: Altuzarre Spring 2015"
Image 3: Wes Gordon Spring 2015
Image 5: Tadashi Shoji Spring 2015